SOME HELPFUL FAULT FINDING TIPS ARE :TESTING VOLTAGE
DROPS IN THE CIRCUIT.
DO A BATTERY LOAD TEST
AS DESCRIBED IN THE FITTING INSTRUCTIONS ,
VOLTAGE DROPS IN THE
CIRCUIT CAN BE CAUSED BY DIRTY, LOOSE OR CORRODED CONNECTIONS OR
SWITCHES.
BECAUSE RESISTANCE IN
THE CIRCUIT IS ADDITIVE, SMALL RESISTANCES IN THE BATTERY,
CONNECTIONS, FUSE HOLDERS, IGNITION SWITCHES, KILL BUTTONS OR
GROUNDS ETC. CAN LEAD TO FURTHER VOLTAGE DROPS.
THEY CAN REDUCE THE
VOLTAGE TO THE SPARX BOX FROM THAT OF 12.6 VOLTS OF A FULLY CHARGED
BATTERY TO UNDER 11 VOLTS AT THE BOX TERMINAL.
BECAUSE THE SPARX BOX
DOES NOT TURN ON UNTIL IT RECEIVES IMPULSES FROM THE PICK-UP IT IS
HARD TO LOAD TEST THE BOX ITSELF BUT THIS CAN BE DONE BY :-
ON POSITIVE
EARTH SYSTEMS
REMOVING THE BLACK WIRE
FROM THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE COIL AND CONNECTING THE WHITE
WIRE FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH TO THAT COIL TERMINAL
ON NEGATIVE
EARTH SYSTEMS
REMOVE THE BLACK WIRE
FROM THE NEGATIVE COIL TERMINAL AND CONNECTING A WIRE TO GROUND FROM
THIS COIL TERMINAL.
THE LOAD PROVIDED BY THE
COIL COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT
NOW WITH A DIGITAL VOLT
METER MEASURE THE DC VOLTAGE AROUND THE CIRCUIT WITH ONE LEAD ON THE
BATTERY EARTH TERMINAL AND THE OTHER METER LEAD MEASURING AROUND THE
CIRCUIT AT ALL OF THE CONNECTIONS IN THE CIRCUIT UNTIL YOU GET TO
THE JUMPER LEAD BETWEEN THE COILS, AT THIS POINT YOU WILL SEE A
VOLTAGE DROP FROM THE RESISTANCE OF THE FIRST COIL, IF YOU MEASURE
ANYTHING LESS THAN THE BATTERIES VOLTAGE UP TO THIS POINT YOU MUST
FIND THE CAUSE OF THE VOLTAGE DROP.
THE MOST COMMON CAUSES
ARE FURRED UP CONNECTIONS AND FAULTY IGNITION/KILL SWITCHES.
THE MAXIMUM CURRENT DRAW
THROUGH THE SPARX BOX MUST NOT EXCEED 5 AMPS
THE 5 AMP CURRENT
CAPACITY OF THE BOX WILL BE EXCEEDED AND THE BOX PERMANENTLY DAMAGED
IF
1. THE BLACK WIRE FROM
THE BOX IS SHORTED TO EARTH
2. THE BLACK WIRE
BETWEEN THE COILS IS SHORTED TO EARTH
3. THE COILS ARE
INTERNALLY SHORTED TO EARTH
4. THE RESISTANCE OF THE
COIL OR COILS IN SERIES IS LESS THAN 2.4 OHMS
THE COILS SUPPLIED WITH
THE KIT ARE 6 VOLT AND IS WHAT WE RECOMMEND
BUT IF YOU USE GOOD
QUALITY 12 VOLT COILS WITH A 3.7 OHMS RESISTANCE (APPROX) THAT WILL
WORK FINE.
TWIN LEAD COILS CAN BE
USED AS LONG AS THE TOTAL RESISTANCE OF THE COILS IS BETWEEN 3 AND
7.5 OHMS.
THE UNIT MUST ALWAYS BE
WIRED WITH THE FRAME OR CHASSIS ACTING AS A GROUND. IF A MOTOR IS
RUBBER MOUNTED THEN A EARTHING STRAP IS NEEDED BETWEEN THE ENGINE
AND FRAME.
IF THE BIKE IS BEING
OPERATED WITHOUT A BATTERY THEN A CAPACITOR (LUCAS TYPE 2MC OR
54170009) OR SIMILAR MUST BE INSTALLED IN THE WIRING SYSTEM.
ALL WIRE MUST BE CUT TO
LENGTH AND NEVER BE COILED UP AS THIS CAN AFFECT THE IGNITION
SYSTEM.
ALSO THE STATOR PLATE
WIRES MUST NOT BE RUN ALONGSIDE AC ALTERNATOR WIRES.
* NOTE THAT TRIPLE OWNERS MUST NOT USE THE STANDARD STATOR
PLATE WIRES IN THE ORIGINAL WIRING HARNESS AS THE AC WIRES RUN NEXT
TO THEM IN THE HARNESS.
THIS IS WHY WE PROVIDE A
HARNESS WITH THE IGNITION KIT TO MINIMISE THESE PROBLEMS.
THE SYSTEM RUNS “WASTED
SPARK” MEANING ALL PLUGS FIRE TOGETHER AT THE SAME TIME SO IF A
MISFIRE OCCURS ON ONLY ONE CYLINDER THEN IT IS LIKELY TO BE
CARB/COIL OR MECHANICAL PROBLEM WITH THAT CYLINDER.
IF YOU ENCOUNTER ANY
OTHER WEIRD PROBLEMS THAT CAN OCCUR FROM BIKE TO BIKE PLEASE LET US
AT SPARX KNOW ABOUT IT SO WE CAN BE PREPARED AND LET OTHERS KNOW.
